A chilly October evening in Waterville or Augusta calls for something warmer than a hurried dinner, and butternut squash soup fits the mood in central Maine.

This creamy squash and apple soup gets its sweetness from produce rather than added sugar, while garlic, onion and herbs keep every spoonful savory.

It makes six servings, enough for a family meal or leftovers that make tomorrow’s lunch feel like a small victory.

Serve it with crusty bread after an afternoon outdoors, when the air along the Kennebec has its familiar autumn bite.

Start with one large butternut squash, peeled, seeded and chopped, or use one 20-ounce bag of frozen squash when time is tight.

Add half a cup of chopped scallions, two sliced carrots, one chopped apple, one peeled and chopped potato, one chopped large onion and two garlic cloves.

Pour in three cups of low-sodium vegetable or chicken broth, then season with one teaspoon of dried oregano and half a teaspoon of dried rosemary.

Keep five ounces of fat-free evaporated milk aside until the vegetables are cooked.

Place the squash, scallions, broth, carrots, apple, potato, onion, garlic and herbs in a large saucepan.

Cover and cook over medium heat for about 30 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender enough to blend easily.

An immersion blender makes quick work of the pot, but a countertop blender works too if you process the hot soup carefully in batches according to its instructions.

Once smooth, stir in the evaporated milk for a silky finish without the heaviness of a cream-based soup.

For a thinner bowl, add a little more milk until the texture feels right.

The apple adds gentle brightness, not a dessert-like flavor, and the potato gives this creamy squash soup its satisfying body.

Squash apple soup also gives frozen squash a chance to shine when peeling a whole one feels like too much work.

Set out the bread, pour the soup and let a simple seasonal dinner bring everyone back to the table.